A Stormy Hiking Trip...

Picture of me taken on the Stormy Hiking Trip

It was the Fall of 1977.  I had been dating Margo Burge for only a few weeks after having been introduced by Jim and Linda Schmitt.  The Schmitts and I had known each other for several years and Jim had gone backpacking with me on numerous occasions.  It seemed perfectly fine then, when one evening after the Schmitts had hosted a nice meal for Margo and me, that the four of us decided to do a backpacking adventure together on Thanksgiving weekend.  Thanksgiving would fall on November 24th.  We'd drive to the Nantahala Outdoor Center in Wesser, North Carolina, and get a shuttle to Stecoah Gap on the Appalachian Trail.  Then we'd hike south toward the outdoor center, taking two days, and spending the night at the Sassafras Gap Shelter, about seven miles from our starting point.

A sign on the AT describing the section we hiked

We'd be hiking generally uphill the first day, going from 3,165 ft. elevation at Stecoah Gap to about 4,330 ft. at the shelter, on top of Cheoah Bald.  On the second day, we'd hike generally downhill, through a section that was known to be the steepest part of the AT at the time, the "Jump-Up," before concluding our hike with a hearty meal at the N.O.C. (2,051 ft. elev.)  It would be an easy two-day hike to introduce the girls to backpacking.

The next several weeks were spent planning for the trip, buying boots and packs for the ladies, and deciding what clothes to pack.  I told Margo that the weather in Western North Carolina could be quite dramatic in the Spring and Fall.  We'd need to prepare for balmy weather as well as extreme cold.  We included gloves, long underwear, hat, and a down jacket in our plan, as well as shorts.  Who knew what to expect?

On the Wednesday before Thanksgiving, the excited hiking party left Pass Christian, Mississippi, in the Schmitt's car.  We arrived in Wesser late that night and stayed in the Motel that was part of the N.O.C.  The next morning we got up and had a hearty breakfast and got hooked up with our shuttle driver.  The weather was spectacular -- clear, sunny skies and temperature in the mid sixties -- perfect hiking weather.  We drove to Stecoah Gap, where the driver dropped us off with all our gear and we watched him disappear back down the two-lane road.  Our car would be waiting for us at our destination.

We were on the trail by 10:00 AM.  It wasn't long before I heard the first jibe, "I'm sure glad I packed a down jacket."  Followed not long after by, "I'm really going to need those warm gloves."  This got old in a hurry, but I kept my mouth shut.  I had seen on the bulletin board at the Outdoor Center that a cold front was coming through along with potential snow flurries and much lower temperatures.  It was good that no matter what, we would be prepared.

The view of Stecoah, NC from Cheoah Bald --
The view we never saw because of snow and fog

Along about 1:00 PM, it began to cloud over and the temperature started to drop.  Not long after that, we felt the first hint of drizzle.  We stopped and added a layer of clothing and put on ponchos.  Soon the drizzle had turned to sleet.  By the time we reached the top of Cheoah Bald, we were in a blinding snow storm.  According to our guidebook, there was a lookout point with a "spectacular view of the town of Stecoah, far below."  We saw snow.

After a short search, we located the shelter.  We tied our tarps across the open front of the structure to defend against the wind and snow.  By now, we had several layers of clothing on and no one was complaining about having brought so much.  

The current Sassafras Gap shelter that has long-since
replaced the one in which we froze

Not long after we arrived at the shelter, we heard voices and soon three men dressed in shorts and t-shirts appeared headed north, the direction from which we had come.  We told them they were still 6 miles from the parking lot where they informed us they had left their car.  We offered to let them stay with us and share clothing, sleeping bags and food, but they insisted on hiking on.  I have often wondered how they ever made it down that sometimes steep trail in the dark so lightly dressed.  It had to have been a miserable experience.

We put our sleeping bags close together so we could benefit from each other's body warmth.  After a very quick dinner of freeze-dried something, we decided to turn in, still talking about the northbound hikers.

As dawn greeted us, it was 17° F.  The wind had died down.  Our tarps had worked fairly well, but Jim and I had failed to put our boots inside our sleeping bags and they were frozen stiff as boards.  I was nominated to get up first and get a fire going in the now snow-filled fire pit.  We had had the foresight to gather some kindling and firewood when we found the shelter, so it wasn't long before we had a fire going.  We got our things thawed out, somewhat dried, and packed after a breakfast cooked on our trusty Svea 123 camp stoves (Do they even make those any more?)

After packing, we began our descent.  I think I made most of it on my fanny.  The rain before the snow had coated the ground with ice which was now snow-covered and treacherous.  It was a case of grabbing trees for stability as one slid down the steep leaf-covered icy incline.  We were too busy trying to remain upright to carry on much of a conversation, but at one point, Jim said to me, "I'm afraid the girls will never do this again."

Three or four hours later, the trail leveled out and before long we were sitting at a table in the warm dining room of the Nantahala Outdoor Center.  We ordered some homemade soup and bread.  Much to Jim's and my surprise Margo and Linda began talking about what equipment they would need for the next trip!  And there were many, many more.